A Beginner’s Guide
This is a great technique for projects of any size and can be especially helpful for small circumference projects, especially if you want an alternative to using DPNs.
Let’s dive into the nuts and bolts of how, and why, to use this handy knitting in the round method!
What Is Knitting in the Round with Two Circular Needles?
Knitting in the round with two circular needles is done by splitting your stitches (roughly) evenly between two separate circular needles allowing you to knit the stitches on one needle at a time alternating between them to knit your project in the round.
Why Use Two Circular Needles?
Some knitters find this to be the easiest method for knitting in the round since it is similar to knitting projects flat in a way that is familiar and comfortable.
It also saves some time compared to magic loop knitting since you don’t have to pull out the loop, just turn to the other side.
For those who are intimidated by DPNs, this method allows you to still knit any project you want! And keeps your stitches farther from needle tips, protecting them from falling off the needles as readily.
What You’ll Need
Two circular needles
To knit in the round with two circular needles both circular needles need to have the same size tips.
Say you are making an adult hat using bulky weight yarn and US size 10.5 (6.5mm) needles, you would need two cords with tips, so four tips, two cords as pictured below
Yarn
The yarn you will use should work for whatever project you have selected.
Stitch Marker
Since stitches are divided (roughly) in half when knitting in the round with two circular needles, having a stitch marker on the needle may not be necessary.
The gap between the two needles can indicate the beginning of your round. And if that is the case, the stitch marker won’t stay on your project if you have it on the needle.
A couple options:
- Offset the beginning of the round so it is not right at the gap between the two circular needles
- Put the stitch marker on the right side of your project around a stitch in the beginning of your project to mark the beginning of the round. If you do this, occasionally move the stitch marker up so it stays close to your needles as your project grows longer.
Question: Do the Two Circular Needles Need to Be Identical?
No – just the circumference of your needle tips need to be the same.
For example, both should be US size 10.5 (6.5mm) or both US size 8 (5mm). However, having something different about them can make it easier to keep track of which needle tip to use on which side.
The difference could be the color or material of the cord or the tips.
For example, you could have one cord that is green and one that is orange. Or you could have one needle tip that is a light wood and one that is a dark wood.
The pictures below show needles with the same size tips, but different color cords and tips and different length cords
Same vs Different:
- Same needle size: Yes!
- Same cable length: Can be, doesn’t need to be
- Same brand: Can be, doesn’t need to be
- Same material: Not required, but can effect tension
- Same colors: No, can be, but helpful to keep track with different colors
How to Knit in the Round with Two Circular Needles
Cast on
Cast on all the stitches required for your pattern.
Divide the stitches
My preference is to cast on all my stitches onto one circular needle then slip half of them to the second needle. This makes casting on go more quickly and smoothly, and gives a second chance to count and confirm you have the right number of stitches
Arrange the needles
Lay the stitches out so all the stitches are in a long line.
Fold the cast on stitches in half so the circular needles are parallel to each other.
Have the working yarn connected to the needle that is farther away from you and the first stitch you cast on on the needle closer to you.
Check for twisting
Before connecting any circular knitting in the round you want to check for twists – nothing derails a circular knitting project faster than twisted stitches.
Are all the cast on loops up and all the “bumps” of the cast on edge down? If yes, you are good to go!
Knit the first half
Here is the exciting part, connecting your first and last cast on stitches and making your way across the first needle!
When doing this row, follow the instructions for “round 1” in your pattern
Switch needles
Once all the stitches on your first circular needle have been worked, you’re ready to move to the stitches on the second needle.
I often think of this as “turning” the page of a book, and it will be the same motion you use when you have finished knitting a row on a flat knitting project and are ready to go back across the row.
Knit the second half
Take the time you need to ensure that you are working on the second needle. This one will not have the working yarn connected to it. Slide your stitches that the working yarn “points” to onto the tip of the second needle and pick up the needle tip at the other end of the same circular needle. Use that tip to work the stitches according to your pattern. Remember, you are still on “Round 1”
Repeat!
Now you are ready to move to Round 2 and work your way across your first circular needle.
Want to see this method in action?
Watch: How to Knit in the Round with Two Circular Needles
How to Know You’re Doing It Correctly
The “right side” is on the outside and the “wrong side” is in the middle between your circulars.
Check that there are no gaps / ladders between the circular needles.
Both sides should be the same height when you finish a round. If this is not the case, you likely went back and forth on the same needle instead of switching sides.
Stitches should stay on the two different needles, if they end up all on the same needle it means the stitches were not knit with the tips connected to the cord the stitches were on.
Have another topic you want covered? I love suggestions!
Add it in the comments and stay tuned for a future blog post!
FAQs
Yes! This is a great option for most projects in the round. And can be a nice alternative for anyone who either doesn’t have or doesn’t want to use DPNs.
This can be used on small circumference projects like socks, mittens and sweater sleeves and also on larger projects like sweater bodies or hats.
NOTE: For the most part you won’t need to change anything about the pattern itself, but if the pattern is specific about how many stitches to put on each DPN, you will need to translate that into your choice of two circulars instead.
Work all the stitches on the circular needle cord with the tips connected to that cord. Once you have worked all those stitches, flip your project to the other side and work the stitches on the second circular needle.
More details and tips included above!
Yes! The tips should be the same size so your project has even stitches
No! They can be, but as long as both cords are long enough to hold about half the stitches any cord length will work.
No problem! You can have a different number of stitches on each side and still use this method.
Say your project calls for 51 stitches, you can have one side with 25 and one side with 26 stitches.
No problem! You can have a different number of stitches on each side and still use this method.
Say your project has 35 stitches and a 5 stitch repeat, you can have 15 stitches on one needle and 20 on the other so you don’t have to switch sides in the middle of your repeat.
Yes! This is a great alternative to DPNs or the magic loop method that allows you to knit even very small projects. Having even two stitches on each cord you can still knit with two circulars.
Some knitters think so. It is definitely more similar to knitting flat, which feels comfortable for many knitters when transitioning to circular for the first time. Another perk is that the stitches you are not working on can be safely held on the cord making it much less likely to have stitches fall off your needles (or accidentally pull out one of your DPNs, always makes my heart drop a bit when I do that!)
Yes! Both toe up and top down socks can be knit on two circular needles. If the directions are written telling you how many stitches to put on which DPN for the heel you will need to do a little adjusting to get it set up. Want some help with that? I teach virtual lessons and am happy to walk you through it!
This is a common situation no matter what method is used for knitting in the round. I find it helpful to lay the stitches on a flat surface like my desk or table and visually confirm that the bottom “bumps” do not cross over the needle at any point. I’ll even “fold” the two needles and check a second time before joining in the round.
Even if they are not twisted when you connect in the round, sometimes people twist the stitches around the needle while moving them up closer to the tip to work the stitches, so keep an eye on that.
Good news – in the first couple rows you can get away with untwisting them and just having a small bump at the bottom which most people will never notice (unless you point it out to them!).
If the ladder is only on the side where you connected in the round, there was probably a gap left between the first and last stitch when joining to start your project.
If there are ladders on both sides, the yarn is not being pulled tight enough as you move from one circular needle to the other.
Making sure your other needle tips are out of your way can help with this.
Also giving an extra “tug” on your 2nd stitch on the new needle can get rid of the extra yarn that leaves a ladder without making it too tight.
This can happen when the stitches are pulled too tight, especially if they stitches at the end of the previous circular needle are pulled taut against the cord instead (instead of the needle tip) making them extra tight when they are moved onto the needle to knit.
Yes! This is a great alternative to Magic Loop.
If your project needs Magic Loop from the beginning you can start with this method instead.
If you can start with a singular circular needle but eventually need to use Magic Loop, you can just transition to two circulars at that point.
Have another question you want answered here? Drop it in the comments!
